Faults & symptoms

Sockets Not Working on One Wall

Dead outlets in a group almost always mean one broken connection, not several failed sockets.

Domestic socket circuits are usually wired as a ring, so a single interrupted conductor can leave a run of outlets dead while the rest of the house behaves perfectly. That grouping is a useful clue — it tells us roughly where along the run to look.

Check the obvious first

Confirm the MCB or RCBO for the sockets has not tripped, and check whether the dead outlets are fed via a spur from a fused connection unit — a blown 13A fuse in an FCU behind a unit or cupboard is a frequent and cheap cause.

Broken ring or loose terminal

Beyond that, the usual finding is a terminal that has worked loose at one accessory, a conductor that broke where it was over-bent during a previous refit, or a cable nicked during flooring or plumbing work. We test continuity of the ring conductors to confirm the circuit's shape before opening anything up.

Repair, then verify

Once the break is found and remade, we retest the whole circuit — ring continuity, insulation resistance and earth fault loop impedance — and issue a minor works certificate. Testing the whole circuit matters because the original damage often has a companion nearby.

Common questions

Could it be one faulty socket?
It can be, if that socket is the point where the ring is broken. The symptom is the same, which is why we test rather than swap.
Is it worth adding sockets while you are there?
Often yes — the circuit is already isolated and open, so extra outlets are cheaper done at the same time.
Will you need to lift flooring?
Only if the readings put the fault under the floor. We start at accessible accessories.
Do I get paperwork for a repair?
Yes, a minor electrical installation works certificate with the test results.

Note which outlets are dead and whether they share a wall with a kitchen or bathroom — that shortens the search.

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