Sockets and switches inherited from a previous layout are one of the most common irritations in a home: behind the sofa, too low to reach, in the wrong place for the new kitchen island, or grouped where a wardrobe now stands. Moving them is straightforward work, and the cost is dominated by making good, which is why the timing relative to decoration matters so much.
What moving a socket involves
The existing point is disconnected, a new cable route is formed to the new position, a new back box is fitted and the accessory installed and tested. The old position is either blanked off with a suitable accessible cover, or the cable is properly removed back to a live accessible point and the hole made good.
What is not acceptable is a cable simply cut, buried in the wall and plastered over. Any joint left in the fabric must be accessible or made in a maintenance free way, and abandoned live cables must be dealt with properly.
Sensible heights
Modern practice places socket outlets at around 450 millimetres above floor level and switches at around 1200 millimetres, which suits most people and is required in new dwellings. In existing homes there is no obligation to change, but raising sockets during a refurbishment makes a genuine daily difference, especially for anyone who finds bending difficult.
In kitchens, worktop sockets sit above the worktop with sensible clearance from the sink and hob. In bedrooms, sockets either side of the bed at bedside height save a permanent tangle of trailing leads.
Wall construction and cable routes
Cables buried in walls must run in permitted zones, vertically or horizontally from the accessory, so that anyone drilling later has a reasonable expectation of where they are. Diagonal runs across a wall are not acceptable.
Solid walls need chasing and making good. Stud walls are quicker but may have noggins in the way. Insulated dry lining requires care to avoid compromising the insulation or vapour layer. Each of these affects time and therefore price.
- Cables run only in permitted zones within walls
- Chases cut to appropriate depth in masonry
- No diagonal buried runs
- Metal back boxes fitted with grommets and correctly earthed
Timing around decoration
Making good and redecoration are the larger part of the disruption. Doing all electrical moves before plastering or painting turns a messy job into an invisible one. If you are replanning a room, mark the positions you want on the wall with tape and live with them for a couple of days before committing.
It is also the right moment to add points rather than just move them. The wall is already open and the incremental cost is small.
Replacing accessories for appearance
Swapping tired white plastic for brushed steel, matt black or screwless plates is a low cost visual upgrade. Two practical notes: metal plates require a correctly earthed metal back box, and deeper accessories such as dimmers and USB sockets often need a deeper box than the one already in the wall.
It is also an opportunity to have the existing terminations checked. A large proportion of loose or discoloured terminations are found during accessory changes, and fixing them is quick while the plate is off.
Kitchens, islands and awkward positions
Islands need a supply routed under the floor, which is far easier before the floor is laid. Pop up socket units are available and useful but need a deep enough carcass and a route in. Discuss it at kitchen design stage, not at fitting stage.
Bathrooms are governed by zone rules restricting what may be installed and where, so sockets other than shaver supply units are generally not appropriate.
Certification
Relocating an accessory on an existing circuit is minor works and should come with a minor electrical installation works certificate confirming the tests carried out. It is a short document but it is your record that the alteration was tested.
Thinking about accessibility
Raising sockets and lowering switches is one of the cheapest accessibility improvements available in an existing home, and it benefits everyone, not only people with limited mobility. Consider rocker switches with larger plates, sockets with integrated switches that are easy to operate, and a lit switch at the top and bottom of stairs. None of it costs much when done alongside other work, and it makes a house easier to live in for longer.
Common questions
- Can sockets be moved without replastering?
- On stud walls sometimes; on solid walls the chase must be filled and made good.
- What height should sockets be?
- Around 450 millimetres is current practice and much easier to reach than skirting height.
- Can I just plaster over an old cable?
- No. Cables and joints must be accessible or properly removed and terminated.
- Do metal plates need anything special?
- A correctly earthed metal back box, and often a deeper box for dimmers and USB units.
- When should I book this work?
- Before plastering and decorating. It makes the whole job cheaper and tidier.
Replanning a room? We move and add sockets before you decorate, with everything tested and certificated.
Related guides
- What It Costs to Add a Socket or TwoThe socket costs a few pounds. Everything else is about how hard it is to get a cable there.
- Electrics for a Kitchen RefitThe kitchen carries more electrical load than any other room, and gets the least planning time.
- Adding Sockets Instead of Living With Extension LeadsExtension leads are a symptom: the room has fewer outlets than the way you live in it.